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My Highlights of Naples, Italy
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My Highlights of Naples, Italy

March 15th, 2016 Sonja DESTINATIONS, EUROPE, ITALY, NAPLES
My Highlights of Naples, Italy

In the summer of 2013, I spent two weeks in Italy. This wasn't my first trip to Italy (and hopefully not the last), but with two guided tours across (almost) the whole country and a few self‐guided days in Naples in‐between, I managed to squeeze quite a lot of city sightseeing into those 14 days.

What I can say now is: even the city of Naples alone was worth the trip!

Naples and its most famous landmark Mount Vesuvius

Naples and its most famous landmark Mount Vesuvius

What the … BEEP!… are you doing in Naples?

That was the reaction of one of my former cinema colleagues in London who had warned me about Naples. He is from Milan himself and there is still a steep divide between the (traditionally more developed and richer) North and the (less developed and poorer) South of Italy. There are many stereotypes of how North Italians (and the world) see Southern Italian cities like Naples. The most prevalent is probably that the Mafia still pretty much controls large parts of the South, especially the city of Naples.

A Neapolitan church - complete with godfathers!?

A Neapolitan church – complete with godfathers!?

The charm of the South

I decided to go anyway… and was positively surprised how safe I felt there and how friendly the people of Naples welcomed me. In fact, they were a lot nicer than those in the tourist strongholds of Rome, Florence or Venice.

Maybe it's because people of Naples are a bit different than the rest of Italians starting with the fact that they have their very own language which – owing to the city's history – is a mix of Greek, Spanish and Latin. Even I could hear that this language sounded very different from mainstream Italian – although I only speak very little Italian.

I also met one or two locals who ONLY spoke the Neapolitan language and apparently no Italian (including the admissions guy at the castle). But somehow we managed to communicate with our hands. A technique which always works in Italy! 😉

Balcony view from my hostel

Balcony view from my hostel

Longest and quietest walking tour ever

In terms of tours, this Italy trip broke several records. The Pompeii tour I did several days before Naples on my Busabout Amalfi Coast Tour, was the funniest ever thanks to tour guide Francesco – an Italian original himself! I laughed so much at his outbursts of "Mamma Mia!" and "Fantastico", that this tour is burnt into my memory for all time.

Naples from above

Naples from above

The second record was the longest and quietest walking tour ever when the son of the hostel owner showed us hostel guests his city – but without the usual descriptions, anecdotes or any speech for that matter. However, we still enjoyed our long stroll (I think it was about 5 or 6 hours…) taking in the relaxed pace of Naples, which is generally a bit slower than in other parts of the country.

One of the city's squares

One of the city's squares

The highlight was our visit in a super cheap Pizzeria where you can not only make a bargain, but also taste the original Pizza Margherita that was invented in Naples. This was truly something that only a local could have shown us!

For more on the pizza thing, scroll down to the money saving tips. 🙂

Naples arcades

Naples arcades

 

Backyard Pizzeria

Backyard Pizzeria

Culture and all that

painting in museum

Even though Naples has several great museums, the National Archaeological Museum is probably the most famous one – and it is truly great! You can see lots of artefacts and paintings from Pompeii here with some of them even looking like they were painted yesterday instead of 2,000 years ago. Amazing! In terms of archaeological treasures, this museum is the most important in Italy and one of the most important museums for this kind of art in the world.

Statue in the museum

What's more, the historic city centre of Naples is a museum in itself. It's listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and according to Wikipedia is the largest historic city centre in Europe!

Alexander the Great in his most famous picture!

Alexander the Great in his most famous picture!

 

Scary Moment! The notorious Emperor Caracalla looking at me in a deserted gallery!

Scary Moment! The notorious Emperor Caracalla has spotted me in a deserted gallery!

Secret Naples

Another interesting experience while being in Naples was the Underground Naples tour that I took with fellow travellers from the hostel. There is a whole hidden world underneath modern Naples with large parts of it serving as former bunkers in WW2. We had a very knowledgeable, entertaining local tour guide. I believe his name was Gaetano and he was still a student.

Me in the Caves - a tough test for my Claustrophobia!

Me in the Caves – a tough test for my Claustrophobia!

One amazing thing he told us, for example, was that underneath a typical row of houses there was a Roman Amphitheatre. This had only been rediscovered recently and when we went in there many traces were still visible. Fantastico! I got quite chilly in the caves and those alley paths were really, really narrow. But it wasn't like the tour guide hadn't warned people with claustrophobia (that would include me!).

Save in the City

As Naples is a lot less touristy than Rome or Florence, it's a great place to save your holiday Euros. Nowhere else was the typical Italian food so cheap – and so real. You can get delicious and really fairly priced gelato ice cream at many different ice cream shops with lots of unusual flavours (like Nutella or Kinder chocolate!) all around the city.

Then there is Pasta Napoli, probably my favourite dish in the world. You can really taste the different when you order one in Naples!

The original Pizza Margherita!

The original Pizza Margherita!

Last but not least there is the Italian national dish pizza, which was invented here! As the legend goes, the Italian Queen Margherita visited Naples in 1889 and ordered a Pizza with the colours of the Italian flag. The simple, but effective ingredients of white mozzarella cheese, green basil and red tomatoes were thrown together and prego – the Pizza Margherita was born!

I don't remember exactly, but the pizzeria we went to might have been Sorbillo. The pictures looked a lot like it and the price matches as well. It was 3 € only for a whole lot of Pizza Margherita!

A typical Neapolitan alleyway - complete with scooters!

A typical Neapolitan alleyway – complete with scooters!

After all this, did you get a taste for Naples, too? Or have you already been and have a few good sightseeing tips? If so, leave a comment below.

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2 Comments
  1. Dawn
    23rd September 2018 at 1:21 am Reply

    "In Rome, you will search for an ice cream shop in vain as there are practically none."

    What??? I was in Rome for a week and a half and visited easily more than one a day.

    Most I stumbled into without any help (i.e. no guides/Google), and then one day I got an awesome impromptu tour from a local who loved gelato and took me to his favorites. (I'd already found 2 of them on my own!)

    Rome has great gelato, and it's easy to find.

    1. Sonja
      17th November 2018 at 7:55 pm Reply

      Hi Dawn! There are several reasons why I wrote this: I was referring to actual ice cream shops, not ice cream stands on the street, which of course you will find plenty of in Rome. When I visited Rome for the first time in 2006, there were indeed very few of such shops, where you can actually sit down to eat your ice cream, in Rome. In comparison, I found a lot of such ice cream shops in Naples. I know that 2006 is a long time ago now and the situation has probably changed in Rome, too. I've changed the text in my blog post because I realize that my previous comment might be misunderstood. Thanks for making me aware of this! Keep on enjoying your travels and discovering the world through movies! 😉

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Sonja

Sonja

I am an ex London expat now living back in Germany. My second home is the cinema. If you don't find me there I am probably travelling the world in order to trace my favourite film settings while trying to stay on a budget. On filmfantravel.com, I combine these two passions to share my best tips about film-inspired budget travel. Join the journey on Twitter! @filmfantravel

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Hi! I'm Sonja from Germany. I'm a full‐time Freelance Translator and Travel Journalist on a part‐time mission to discover the world through movies.

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